2015/10/15 00:30
A unique dyeing technique yielding exquisitely colored
patterns
Tegaki-yuzen, hand-dying, is a type of pattern dying that
became popular in the mid-Edo Period (Eighteen
century) This technique which enables the
dyeing of densely-packed, intricate patterns, is highly unusual, but is made
possible by squeezing rich starch paste, called nori, into a fine
outline, called an itome.
A painstaking process to being colors to life
The production of tegaki-yuzen requires several highly painstaking
steps.
* Each Tegaki-yuzen workshop uses slightly different processes and tools. The
steps outlined below are those used in the dyeing of the fabrics used in our
bras.
1. Design
A preliminary design is drawn on a paper template called a hinagata.
2. Rough sketch
A scale drawing is created on a piece of paper the same size as the actual
fabric.
3. Outline
Fabric is laid on top of the rough sketch, and the rough sketch is
carefully traced with special glue.
4. Pretreatment
Funori, a liquid adhesive made from a type of
seaweed, is applied to the entire piece of fabric to ensure it is dyed evenly.
5. Pattern dyeing
Dye is applied to the patterned areas. The desired color is achieved by
mixing anywhere from five to six primary colors.
6. Wax coating
Heated wax is applied to the colored patterns to protect them.
7. Background
dyeing
The background dye is applied.
8. Washing
When the dyes have dried, they are steamed in a special boiler for
kimonos. At this stage, any leftover dyes and wax are washed off.
9. Steaming
The fabric is steamed again and stretched out straight.
10. Retouching
The final product is checked, and the dyes are retouched as needed.